Crack Climbing Workshop 2013 - Trip Report
New River Gorge, Fayetteville, WV
by Rick Dotson
The Workshop was a great success. Twenty-two members participated including Brenda Huber, Chris DeRosa, David Lysy, Derek Marble, Emily Cumberland, Ex Pow-Anpongkul, Henry Barkhausen, Jason Salmanoff, Jeff Misiewicz, John Huber, Karlena Lara-Otero, Katie Hammer, Kyle Grim, Nathan Gordon, Peter Jensen, Reed Bumgarner, and Tim Knepp. Special thanks to my Co-Trip Leaders, Bill Baker, Greg Christopulos, Jenny O’Brien and Eric Mountford. Actually everyone chipped in when needed often without being asked. It was a pleasure climbing with such great people.
Some members have posted photos at these sites.
Peter Jensen took these: http://test.diff.net/3private/5ce979faf3c/HTML/
And by Derek.
The weather was amazing. The first two days the temperature was in the 70s with blue skies. But this being the New it needed to rain at least one day and this was Sunday were it drizzled all day but we climbed under a big overhang.
While not surprising given how much training the club is offering and the trips that everyone is taking but I was impressed by the high level of technical skills of all the climbers. Anchor building, top rope set up and leading were all very good. This is not always the case when I climb with people from the gym.
Many people were leading and mock leading and some people were top roping but everybody did most of the climbs. The climbs were picked to provide a variety of routes not often found in the DC area like hand cracks, finger crack, stems, laybacks, and wide cracks. We even had some arêtes and face climbs for variety. Everyone crushed the routes and it was nice to see people getting on routes outside of their comfort zone and doing so well.
We stayed at Chestnut Creek Campground. This is a nice clean quiet campground in the woods. They also have a large pavilion which is nice in case of rain. I made my reservations with Brian and before we arrived he had passed away. Rest in Peace.
We ate at a number of good restaurants and there are many more in town. Someone in our group suggested a restaurant review so other members would have beta when they arrived so here are a couple of reviews.
Cathedral Café has great food, great coffee, great service and the most beautiful food I have ever seen. It was a shame to have to eat it. Pies and Pints, great food, great brew and the service was very good. We got two large pies, Cuban Pork and Steak and Mushroom, both were excellent and feed 8 people. Diogi’s Mexican Grill got us in quickly as a group of 15 that could have been a problem at some of the smaller places. It seems that some people were very happy with their food and others though it was average. We had a very good waitress and we had a good time. So I give it thumbs up. Tudors Biscuit World serves a good country breakfast. The coffee was not so good and the service was slow. Gumbo’s, while we did not eat here this is a place I like and it looks like they are moving into a new bigger place so check them out if you are in town.
Friday we decided to climb at the Junkyard because it can be very busy on weekends due to the easy top rope setups and the high quality of the routes.
Nasty Poodle Chew 5.6 dirty wide layback crack with spiders. What more could you want in a climb?
Keep it tight but don’t give me AIDS 5.6
Jumping Jack Flash 5.7 – nice layback crack in a corner
New River Gunks 5.7 - nice face climbing with an overhang at the top
Mr. Ed 5.8 - wide crack with a tricky start
New Yosemite 5.9 - Awesome splitter crack with multiple cruxes
The Contortionist 5.9 – not many people chose to tackle this wide crack
Four Sheets to the Winds 5.9+ awesome overhanging route with 3 distinct roofs
The Entertainer 5.10a – cool hand crack with an tricky overhang near the ground
Team Jesus 5.10b – face climbing around a small crack with a tough crux
Rapscallion's Blues 5.10c – Amazingly hard stemming with 2 big roofs
Realignment 5.10d – hard vertical finger crack
Climbed at Endless on Saturday mainly to do two super classic climbs: Fantasy and Black and Tan.
Doce Doe 5.7 - nice crack in a corner
Fantasy 5.8 hands\OW – a bit of Off-Width at the bottom of 70 feet of classic 5.8 splitter crack
Grafenberg Crack 5.9 hand\corner\face
Black & Tan 5.10a corner\fingers - technical stemming and laybacks with thin cracks
The Diddler 5.10a arête\face – very hard ie. sandbag
Aesthetica 5.11c overhanging face with two tough cruxes and some fun face climbing
We climbed at the Bridge on Sunday because the 100 yard approach would make it easy to escape in the afternoon. Since it was raining we climbed in the Rock Shelter Cave area which stays dry even in a downpour. The rain stopped for a little while allowing us to get Zag and Angels Arete before it started raining again.
Horton Tree 5.7 thin crack
Labor Day 5.8 powerful laybacking all the way to the end
Zag 5.8 Wide crack, use the crack or face climb around it?
Macho Man 5.9 OW to Hands – tough OW start to a nice hand crack
Angels Arete 5.10a Super classic arête made harder because it was wet.
High Times 5.10c starts at about 5.8 hands, pull a 9+ overhang to 10b jams to 10c fingers
Great climbs, great weather and great friends, what could be better? Maybe another trip!
See you all out on the rock.