Advanced Leader Skill Day: Esoteric anchoring tips/solutions for problem anchor sites

  • Sunday, April 06, 2014
  • 9:00 AM
  • Carderock, MD
  • 0

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I have been asked to run/teach the 2014 PATC Advanced Leader Skill Day workshop. This year's topic is something I have been thinking about for sometime, but an incident in Sept. 2012 really made me realize how important it is.
 
Make a long story short - In Sept. 2012 a new trad leader posted on the PATC listserve his trip report/experience at Little Stoney Man. He lead his pitch, got to the top and found gear placements/anchors limited; nothing would "fit his cordalette." He proceeded to place a cam, untied from his rope, tied the rope to the cam and then hiked down the descent trail back to his belayer and pack. He picked up all the available slings and hiked back up to the summit and built his anchor and then belayed his 2nd. up (I wonder how long this all took - looking around and fidgetting with an anchor, untying and hiking down and then back up and then going back into the rope system and building his anchor - God forbid, he climbed somewhere without a descent trail or a multipitch route that would not allow this "solution').
 
As we all know, the longest route at LSM is a little more than 1/2 a rope length. He had at least 80 feet of climbing rope available to him to build a belay anchor (if he only knew how).
 
This year's PATC Advanced Leader Skill Day's topic is:
What Issus/problems do most Trad Climbers Encounter when Climbing either Single or Multi-pitch?
(Esoteric anchoring tips/solutions for problem anchor sites).
 
Sign up is limited to 10 PATC members (in good standing; paid membership and liability form on file).

Members should have trad leader experience and be comfortable constructing anchors (at a minimum) with a "standard" cordalette and have knowledge/confidence using various climbing knots.
 
Attached is a brief introduction/summary to workshop's goals: Spring 2014 leader skill day - esoteric anchoring tips.docx
 
If you have an question, please email me directly at martycomiskey@yahoo.com.
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