Annapolis Rocks is one of the better toproping areas around. They have super classic topropes in the 5.8-5.10 range, and short trad leads ranging from easy to hard.
There’s a good 5.8 next to Black Crack, and a 5.6 variation of Ounce of Perception that’s worth doing.Black Crack (photo: http://www.jeffdeutsch.com/albums/20001000/3.html) and Ounce of Perception (photo: ) are both 5.9s.
The super classic (from the cover of the Eric Horst “VA, WV, MD Climbing” book), Fein’s Roof, is a 5.10a (photo:http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Misc/Built_Tough_98413.html )
This is a good place to practice trad with gear whether for top rope anchors or for lead climbing; and many new and expericed leaders come to practice their craft.
For top roping, if you’re only using natural anchors and not placing gear you’re probably going to need lots of static / webbing. Good anchor points are hard to find on some walls, especially the Faint’s roof area. The South End is easier to build into an anchor and the Fin is kind of fun and is pretty reasonable to find stuff to build anchors on. With 120′ of static you shouild be able to setup for a few 5.7-5.9s on both the South End and the Fin.
Cell Phone Coverage/Internet Access
Cell service should be available at the cliff top.
The Rockville REI is likely the closest shop.
The Newcomers Outdoor Recreation Guide to Anapolis Rocks has some good directions.
Where to Stay
Camping is only allowed in designated locations. See Maryland’s Department of Natural Resources
The spring is right there and the site has a few privy’s. No ground fires are allowed so you’ll need a stove.
Camping is also allowed at Pogo Memorial Campsite another 1.6 miles north or at the Pine Knob Shelter just north of the trailhead at Route 40. (from the Summitpost page).
Where to Eat
Main Cup, in Middletown. Great food, beer, coffee, atmoshphere, people, etc. Reasonable prices. To get there just head back towards 70 from ARocks but don’t get on 70. Cross over it and continue on that same road (Rt. 17 South) for 5-6 miles until you hit a traffic light. That light is the main intersection in MIddletown. Go straight through the light and make your first right immediately after the fire station. Then turn right again immediately into a parking area- now you are behind the Main Cup and just follow the walkway to the front. To get back on 70 from the restaurant, turn right at that same traffic light on Alt 40 East.
- Eric Horst’s Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia and Maryland.
Other Web Sites
- Indy’s Underground Climber’s Guide to Maryland
- Newcomers Outdoor Recreation Guide to Annapolis Rocks