Belayer's Hitch

Source: Rock Sport - Tools,Training & Techniques
              for Climber's - John Forrest Gregory

Contributed by: John Gregory ( gregoryj@gmail.com
            

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Description: How about the belayer's hitch, an adjustable knot that is more secure than the clove hitch, and uses one strand through the carabiner, rather than 2.

From John's book:"The Belayer's hitch - This is a single loop of adjustable anchor tie in. The figure 8

is stronger and simpler but nearly impossible to adjust. Tie as shown, adjust anchor for length, pull the top wrap down over the knot and tighten for security"

Marty C. wrote - I tried printing this picture from the preview of John's book at "Google  Books" which shows the above description and picture and it would not print. Instead here is a picture/description of the knot (aka Artillery loop) from Wikipedia.