General

Talking Head Wall is a small crag in Elizabeth Furnace, about 80 miles from Washington DC. The crag offers some good sport climbing, one of the shortest approaches to be found anywhere, and a swimming hole you could throw a rock into from the base, it doesn’t leave much to complain about.

Type of Climbing

There are around 30 bolted routes from 5.3 – 5.12, the majority in the 5.8-5.10 range.

Directions and Parking

Take I-66 to exit 6 for US-340/US-522, heading left (South) at the exit. Drive about a mile, keeping a close eye on the speed limit — it drops quickly here and there is often a law enforcement presence on weekends. After going over a bridge turn right (East) at the light onto 55 — look for a 7-11 on the left. Drive another well-policed 5 miles and turn left (South) at Fort Valley Rd/VA-678. After about a mile you will pass VA-619 on the left – this is the turn off for Buzzard Rocks.

Keep going on 678 for a total of about 1.8 miles from the turn from 55. The crag is on the right and easy to miss while driving, but shortly after the cliff band meets the road you will see a paved pullout on the right with space for about 8 cars. Park here then walk carefully back up the road about 200 yards to an obvious trail where the cliff meets the road.

Crag Logistics

Talking Head Wall is situated on the Fort Valley Rd in Elizabeth Furnace and faces south east.  It’s shaded in the mornings but warms up quickly. There is some cell coverage at the cliff.

Most routes here are bolted, but some may require a piece of gear or two to prevent runout.  A standard single rack of nuts and cams to 3″ will suffice.. Stick clip useful but not essential.

The routes are steep wall climbs up to 60ft in length, with lower offs. They can be top roped, although it’s often easier to put the rope up by leading.

The crag is popular with groups so it’s a good idea to get there early

Guidebooks

Talking Head Wall is in the  Rakkup Guide to the Elizabeth Furnace and is listed in Mountainproject