General

Located in the Monongahela National Forest in West Virginia, Seneca Rocks is known for stiffly-graded traditionally protected multipitch climbs.  The rock is white Tuscarora quartzite similar to the rock at the Schwangunks but vertically bedded. There are over 500 routes ranging from 5.2 to 5.14, with many classics in the 5.7 – 5.10 range.

There is a long history of climbing at Seneca Rocks and in the 1940s the 10th Mountain Division trained at Seneca Rocks in preparation for deployment to Italy. Many of the old pitons found on the routes date from that period.

Access

Seneca Rocks is roughly 160 miles and three hours’ drive west of Washington. The nearest towns are Elkins in the west and Petersburg in the north-east.

There is a Forest Service Visitor Centre and several parking lots below Seneca Rocks.

There are several stores, a motel, a sometimes-open climbing shop, two climbing guide services and a restaurant (weekends only) located on the road below the west face of Seneca Rocks.

Climbing Considerations

Seneca Rocks is essentially a 400ft fin that runs north – south with climbing on both sides.  The two major formations are the North and South peaks, and there are also significant numbers of routes on the Lower Slabs and at the Southern Pillar. The majority of the climbs require leading and one or more rappels are needed to descend most routes – there are very few walk offs.

Seneca Rocks has a complicated topology and a guidebook is essential for finding your way around. It’s useful on your first visits to be with partners familiar with the cliff. Approaches vary from a mostly flat 15 minutes to a half hour and 500ft of elevation gain.

Rockfall is a real concern especially near the standard rappel routes so please wear a helmet. A full trad rack from small wires to #3 or#4 camming devices is useful for most routes.  There are a few bolted or mostly-bolted routes but these are in the minority. Double ropes are useful but not essential.

In the summer the West Face is shaded until early afternoon, while the East Face stays in sun until late afternoon.

Guidebooks and Guides

The most recent guidebook Seneca: The Climber’s Guide, 4th Edition was published in 2023 by Andy Weinmann & Kevin O’Brien.  It can be bought on Amazon, from the publisher or at the Gendarme Climbing Shop located roads below Seneca Rocks. The Gendarme is typically only open on weekends

There is also a reasonable guide to Seneca Rocks on Mountainproject.

There are two guiding services based at Seneca Rocks – the Seneca Rocks Climbing School, which is associated with the Gendarme ,and across the road  Seneca Rocks Mountain Guides.

Other Information

There are several camping options for Seneca Rocks.

Seneca Shadows Campground is a National Forest campground with showers that is conveniently located within walking distance to the town and climbing. 

An alternate camping location is the Princess Snowbird campground for which you register at Yokums.

Basic supplies can be found at Yokum’s and Harpers’ Country Store below the crag. 

The Front Porch restaurant is usually open in the evening on summer weekends.  Petersburg 20 miles to the north and Elkins 35 mikes to the west offer the closest food options during the week.