The National Park Service has placed limitations on the areas permitted for rock climbing in Great Falls National Park. The NPS website states

“Climbing sites begin downstream of Overlook #3 and end near the emergency boat ramp at Sandy Landing. No climbing is permitted in the historic canal cut. Routes range in length from 25 to 75 feet. Difficulty ranges from 5.0 up to the highest rated climbs at 5.14. Most of the routes are in the 5.5 to 5.9 range. All climbing is top-rope, and no anchors may be drilled into the rock. Bring enough anchor material to have two independent anchor systems and allow about thirty feet of material from the edge to your anchor and you will be set to move to almost every climbing area in the park. The majority of the climbs are accessible via a walk down route except during periods of high water, above 4.5 on the Little Falls gauge. The river gauge reading is reported in the weather section of the Washington Post under the title ‘River Stages.”“

In addition, Appendix B of the Superintendent’s Compendium notes additional restrictions on climbing at Gorky Park, the Microdome, Flatiron and Sandbox which are south of Overlook #3. A permit is required for these areas.

“Access to the rocky environments south of Overlook 3 to the downstream side of Flat Iron climbing area is restricted as depicted on the attached map. Access is by permit only, which is issued to individuals or groups who wish to access the restricted area for climbing, fishing, and for research or similar special uses. Access to points (climbing routes, fishing spots on Potomac River shoreline) in the restricted area is only by a designated marked trail (yellow blaze).

Determination: The purpose of the restriction is to preserve globally rare plant communities endemic to Great Falls and the Potomac River Gorge. Permits are available at the Great Falls Park visitor center.“