Venue Category: Climbing Area

Hidden Rocks

Details

Hidden Rocks  is a climbing area 15 miles southwest of Harrisonburg VA, around 2 1/2 hours drive from Washington DC. It is in the George Washington National Forest and the climbing is accessed from several parking areas on the Hone Quarry Road.  There is a basic Forest Service campground – sites, toilets, no water – on this road.

There are five different crags plus bouldering, all on sandstone that is similar to the New River Gorge.  The crags offer around 100 30 – 70ft trad and sport routes from 5.6 – 5.13.  The majority of the routes are in the 5.7 – 5.10 range and are listed on MountainProject.

The older crags of Hidden Rocks and Hidden Cracks are 30 – 40 minutes walk from the first parking area and offer toproping and trad climbing routes.  Fifteen minutes past those crags is Hidden Roofs, a newer area with primarily sport climbing, largely developed by Harrisonburg climbers.

Lover’s Leap and Upper Lovers are smaller areas accessed from the Hone Quarry Day Use Area.  They are primarily sport and mixed climbing and are respectively 15 and 25 minutes’ walk from parking.

Location

Address:
38.44809, -79.12193, Briery Branch, Virginia, United States

Birdsboro

Details

Venue Website:

From MountainProject

Birdsboro is a former quarry with the most sport climbs of any open area in eastern Pennsylvania, on variable quality diabase rock. It’s a former quarry located on the north side of Trap Rock in Birdsboro, PA. There are dozens of bolted sport routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.14. A single 60m rope does fine for most climbs here. Only the long slabs on the far wall are two real pitches.

In addition to the information on MountainProject,  Birdsboro Routes is a digital guidebook with Gunks Apps and  is the latest source of complete information. 

The Birdsboro Climbing Area is public land owned by Robeson Township and managed by the Birdsboro Municipal Authority. Access and recreational usage are granted to us as a privilege not a right. As the land managers all users are required to observe all posted signs and regulations. Please obey these rules. Remember, climbers are guests here! it’s nice to reciprocate and patronize local merchants on your way in and out of the crag.

Location

Address:
40.2539, -75.8139, Birdsboro, Pennsylvania, United States

Red River Gorge

Details

Venue Website:

The Red River Gorge is one of the biggest climbing meccas in the eastern US, with thousands of climbing routes that will provide ample fun for both newer leaders and experienced crushers alike. Most of the climbing in the Gorge is sport, but there are over 800 trad routes as well. Please take note that ownership of RRG land is managed by multiple entities, and some of these require waivers, and adherence to different rules/ethics that may not be the same across the board. It would be a good idea for those new to the area to look through the Mountain Project page for a comprehensive list of land management entities, ethics, stewardship orgs, official guidebooks, classic climbs etc. While MP can be a good starting point, various guidebooks, RRGCC, Muir Valley, and other resources will have even more comprehensive information.

Location

Address:
48 Muir Rd, Rogers, Kentucky, 41365, United States

Thurmont Watershed – TWS Rocks

Details

The Thurmont Watershed is located just south of the town of Thurmont, Maryland. TWS Rocks is the main climbing area with approximately 80 routes on walls 40-45 feet tall.  Climbing here is mainly top roping, with good routes from 5.6 to 5.11. A few trad leads are possible.

There are also a few routes and boulder problems at Down Range Rocks and Bear Rocks.  Both these areas have longer approaches.

Approach: The approach starts at the intersection of Pryor Road and a fire road located here. . There are 3-4 parking spaces just up the fire road, and there is ample parking along both wide shoulders of Pryor Road. The approach is fairly short and usually takes 15-20 minutes. It follows the fire road up a gentle grade for about 3/4 mile then leaves the fire road to cross a stream on the right and follow the faint climbers’ trail another quarter mile to the cliff.

Recommended Top Roping Gear: Most anchors can be set from trees with the usual TR anchor materials (100′ static and a pair of locking biners for the master point). There are some anchor bolts at the main TWS cliff – Ed Rocks – because the good trees are far back and behind a thick row of rhododendron. Most of these bolts are on the top (horizontal) surface and will need to be extended over the lip and well padded.

Guidebooks:

The routes at these cliffs are described in Maryland Climbs Vol 1 by Mark ’Indy’ Kochte   and on Mountainproject.

Location

Address:
39.61054, -77.43991, Thurmont, Maryland, United States

Buzzard Rocks

Details

Buzzard Rocks is an 80 min drive from Washington DC, followed by a 45 – 60min uphill walk. It is in the Elizabeth Furnace area of the George Washington National Forest in Virginia.

Buzzard Rocks sits on a ridgeline at 1300 ft and faces west.  It’s great in the mornings in the summer as the crag is shaded until 2pm.  In the winter you’ll want to go there in the afternoon. There is no water available.

There are around 30 routes from 5.3 – 5.11, the majority in the 5.7-5.8 range.  The routes are slab climbing, 60 – 120ft in length, with mixed protection, a few bolts plus gear.  Take a rack.  You need two 60m ropes or a 70m rope to abseil so you may want to take a spare rope to fix for this.  You can also walk down. Grades are softish.

Directions and Parking

Take I-66 to exit 6 for US-340/US-522, heading left (South) at the exit. After going over a bridge turn right (West) at the light onto 55 — look for a 7-11 on the left. Drive another 5 miles and turn left (South) at Fort Valley Rd/VA-678. After about a mile turn left on VA-619 at a sign that says “Fish Culture Station”. Drive 1.2 miles past the fish hatchery and look for a sign on the right for the Buzzard Rocks trailhead. Park in the small dirt lot and follow the trail about 2 miles to the top. There is an overflow

The parking lot is small and fills up quickly with hikers.  You need to be there early.

If there’s no parking try Talking Head Wall as parking on the road will likely get a ticket.

Guidebooks

Buzzard Rocks is in the  Rakkup Guide to the Elizabeth Furnace and is listed in Mountainproject  under Shenandoah & NW VA Region Climbing.

Location

Address:
38.9422, -78.3017, Fort Valley Road, Near Front Royal, Virginia, United States

Schaffer Rock and Pondbank

Details

Shaffer Rocks and White Rocks (Pondbank) are two of the better small crags in the Michaux State Forest in Southern Pennsylvania. They are roughly 90 minutes drive from Washington DC. Parking is limited at both crags so try to share rides and/or carpool.

Shaffer Rocks

Shaffer Rocks is predominantly a top-roping crag although there are a few routes that can be led on gear. The crag is easily accessible and has 30+ routes around 60ft in height from 5.3 to 5.11+.

The rock is a good quality Weverton quartzite that dries quickly despite being a north facing wall….a good summer destination. The Mountain Project guide to the climbing with directions to the crag is here.

Schaffer Rocks is on the Appalachian Trail and there is a very nice cabin less than 100 yards from the base. The cabin is The Hermitage, can be rented and more information can be found on the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club’s Website. Camping is also possible at the nearby Caledonia State Park.

Pond Bank

Pond Bank has two main areas, Brown Rocks and White Rocks. Brown Rocks is smaller and the routes are shorter.  Both crags face west and get afternoon sun.

Most visits to Pondbank go to White Rocks, which is predominantly a trad crag with 60+ routes from 5.3 to 5.11+. The approach is a ten minute flat walk to the base of the climbs on a signed path opposite the parking area (around six cars). The climbs are one pitch up to 125ft in height with either a rappel descent or an easy walk-off. Some routes have one or two bolts but there are no sport climbs. Some of the routes need large cams.

The Mountain Project guide to the climbing and directions to White Rocks is here and there is also a Pennsylvania Guidebook .

Location

Address:
9.8123, -77.4822 [Schaffer] 39.86593, -77.52477 [Pondbank], Pennsylvania, United States

Annapolis Rock

Details

Annapolis Rock is a horizontally-bedded quartzite crag in South Mountain State Park, near Frederick MD. It is several miles and an hour’s walk along the Appalachian  Trail from the Annapolis Rock & Black Rock Cliff Appalachian Trailhead Parking on Route 40, outside of Myersville, Maryland.

Annapolis Rock consists of a number of separate cliffs and offers around 50 routes from 5.3 – 5.11 up to 50ft in height.  Most routes can be top-roped and many can be led on trad gear.

There is a campsite on top of the cliff but no water. About a mile away is the less popular Black Rock which offers similar climbing.

Climbing routes at Annapolis Rock are described in the recently published Climb Maryland Vol 1 and on Mountain Project

Location

Address:
39.5583, -77.59862, Near Myersville, Maryland, United States

Sugarloaf

Details

Venue Website:

Sugarloaf Mountain is a small 1,200ft monadnock  20 miles south of Frederick, MD.  Sugarloaf offers local climbers some of the closest traditional lead climbing to the Washington Metro Area. It is also notable for some excellent top-rope routes, as well as numerous boulder problems scattered throughout the forest.

The private Stronghold Foundation owns the land and welcomes many hikers and climbers each year.  Please bring $5 cash to donate at the entrance (encouraged but not required). Sugarloaf is also a trash free park, so pack it in pack it out. There are port-a-potties at the West parking lot.

The most popular climbing areas – Middle Earth and Boy Scout Ledges – are a short walk from the  West View Parking lot

To reach Sugarloaf, follow I270 to the Hyattstown exit, follow Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

Location

Address:
7901 Comus Road, Dickerson, Maryland, 20842, United States

Cooper’s Rock

Details

Venue Phone: (304) 594-1561

Venue Website:

Coopers Rock is a WV State Park near Morgantown.  It offers sandstone bouldering and some roped climbing.

Mountainproject has some information, and there are two published guidebooks that are helpful. Coopers Rock Bouldering Guide is the most current guide for bouldering (though it’s not up to date at this point) and Cheat Canyon Rock by Andrew Leich is the most current rope climbing guide.

Location

Address:
61 County Line Dr, Bruceton Mills, West Virginia, 25525, United States