General

Reed’s Creek is a small sport climbing area located between Franklin WV and Petersburg WV. The climbing, on 60ft limestone cliffs, is very similar to the now-closed Franklin Gorge. Reed’s offers moderate climbs, with around 70 routes mostly in the 5.7 – 5.11 range. The cliffs face south with all day sun so are a good winter destination .

Access

Reed’s Creek is near the entrance to the Smoke Hole and is a 30min drive from Seneca Rocks and about 20 minutes south of Petersburg .

To get there, turn on Reed’s Creek Road from Rt 220 near Upper Tract, WV. Parking can be found at the intersection of Reed’s Creek Rd with Rt 220 as shown below. 

There are also two small pull-outs on the left side of Reeds Creek Rd: first about 100 ft from the 220 intersection and second about 500 feet by the stream crossing. Both can take 2-3 cars.

The trail to the climbing area is half way between 2 pull-outs on the right and is easy to spot because of steep rock steps leading from the road. Picture of entrance from the road below. 

The plateau above the crag is private property. Do not top out under any circumstances.

Reeds Creek is very popular and it’s not unknown for the parking to be full. If this is the case please climb somewhere else such as the Entrance Walls in the Smoke Hole. Please do not park outside the obvious areas.

Climbing Considerations

Reeds Creek is primarily sport climbing with most routes requiring 6-10 quickdraws. A small number of climbs may benefit from pro – see the Rakkup guide [below] for detailed information. The majority of anchors have bolts and rap rings with a few mussy hooks. If you are setting up top ropes, use your own quickdraws and please do not run the rope directly through the anchors except when stripping the route.

Guidebooks

The definitive guidebook for Reeds Creek is currently the Rakkup Guide written by Mike Gray – Reeds Creek Guidebook. There is also an out-of-date print edition covering Reeds Creek and the Smoke Hole.

Mountainproject information for Reeds Creek is here.

Mike has established many of the routes found here and in the Smoke Hole and continues to maintain these crags. If you enjoy Reed’s Creek, consider donating to the continued maintenance of this little hidden gem of a crag. 

Where to Stay

There are several areas to camp within 10-15 minutes of Reed’s Creek. Eagle Rock campground in the smokehole is 10 minutes away, as well as Thorn Springs Campground (about 20 minutes). Plus the campgrounds at Seneca Rocks.

Franklin, WV is 15 minutes away with several stores and motels available.

Special shout-out to Pappy’s Place, located walking distance to the Reed’s Creek entrance and listed on AirBnb, Vrbo etc.