General

Smoke Hole Canyon is a sport climbing destination in the heart of West Virginia between Franklin and Petersburg. There are over 170 routes, mostly sport, on 70ft limestone cliffs ranging from 5.7 to 5.13, and a handful of traditionally protected climbs.

Mike Gray has established many of the routes found here and at Reed’s Creek. He continues to maintain these routes. If you enjoy Smoke Hole, consider donating to the continued maintenance of these fine crags.

Access

Smoke Hole Canyon is located on Smoke Hole Road, a short detour off Route 220 near Upper Tract, WV. It’s about a 45-minute drive from Seneca Rocks, 25 minutes south of Petersburg and 10 minutes north of Franklin.

Parking for all crags is gravel pull-offs along Smoke Hole Road. Please park to allow space for other visitors. There is particularly limited parking for Long Branch/ Guide Wall

Climbing Considerations

Smoke Hole Canyon is predominantly a sport climbing area. Most routes require 6-10 quickdraws, with a small number needing some trad gear. Anchors typically consist of bolts with rap rings or open hardware.

There are three main areas:

Entrance Walls: 37+ routes, primarily 5.7-5.11, with an easy roadside approach.

Copperhead Cove/Jake Hill: 45+ routes, mostly 5.8-5.11,. There is a 10 minute scenic river approach and a stream crossing up to 2ft deep to reach Jake Hill which is across the river from Copperhead Cove.

Long Branch and Guide Walls: 88+ routes, ranging from 5.8-5.13. For Long Branch, follow the left trail through a talus field marked with cairns and orange flags. For Guide Walls, take the right trail up switchbacks to reach the wall, with Sunshine Wall on the left and Ninja Wall on the right.

If setting up top ropes, use your own hardware. Avoid running the rope directly through anchors except when cleaning routes.

Guidebooks

The most comprehensive guide to the area is the Smoke Hole Canyon Rakkup Guide by Mike Gray, which is divided into two volumes:

• Long Branch and Guide Walls Rock Climbing Guidebook
• Entrance Walls, Copperhead Cove, and Jake Hill Rock Climbing Guidebook.

There is also an outdated print guide written by Mike Gray and limited information available on Mountain Project

Where to Stay

Several camping options are available near Smoke Hole Canyon.

Big Bend Campground and Jess Judy Group Campground are both federally managed campgrounds at the end of Smoke Hole Road.

Eagle Rock Campground is a privately owned option along Smoke Hole Road.

Thorn Springs Park is located 25 minutes south, offering campsites and cabins.

For supplies, Franklin WV is just 20 minutes away and offers motels, grocery stores, and other amenities.