General
Crescent Rocks is 65 miles from Washington DC and lies between Leesburg and Winchester. It is on the Appalachian Trail and is right on the Virginia/West Virginia border. It is also known as Raven Rocks.
Type of Climbing
There are around 30 routes from 5.5 – 5.12, many in the 5.8 – 5.10 range. The routes are short on protection so are usually toproped from trees. It’s useful to have some gear as well for anchors. The climbs are 35 – 50ft in height, on good quality vertical rock, typically small hold climbing with a few cracks.
Directions and Parking
In the past it was possible to park on Raven Rock Road and walk about ¾ of a mile down a gated access road to a cellular tower. The top of Crescent Rocks is just past the tower.
To get to the access road take Route 7 west from Leesburg to Bluemont (18 miles). After passing over Snickers Gap take Raven Rock Road on the right. Drive north 1.7 miles to the access road on the left. The access road is at 39.13427 N, 77.82715 W.
There is strong anti-visitor sentiment by the locals who don’t want anyone in the area. As a consequence it is no longer possible to park on Raven Rock Rd without getting ticketed and/or towed. If you are going to utilize this approach you will have to drop people and then park elsewhere – e.g. two miles away at a parking lot on the Appalachian Trail – and walk or cycle back to the access road.
The alternative longer approach is to approach via the Appalachian Trail. After passing over Snickers Gap, ignore Raven Rock Rd and take Route 679 to an Appalachian Trail parking lot immediately on the right. From here it is an hour’s strenuous walk, around 2 miles, north to Crescent Rocks.
Crag Logistics
Crescent Rock faces south. It is a good Fall/Winter/Spring crag but is too hot in the summer. There is no water.
Guidebooks
Crescent Rock is included in the Falcon guidebook book Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland by Eric Horst (2013). Crescent Rock is also listed in Mountainproject under Shenandoah & NW VA Region Climbing.