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Venue Website: https://www.nps.gov/neri/index.htm

The New River Gorge is a National Park near Fayetteville, WV.  There are over 2000 single pitch sport and trad routes on a number of cliffs along the New River and in nearby climbing areas along Highway 19 (The Meadow River and Summersville).  The New River Gorge is a big rafting destination and there are a number of commercial campgrounds as well as an AAC campground. Climbing guidebooks and gear can be purchased at Water Stone Outdoors.

Route information can also be found on Mountainproject.

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Venue Phone: (828) 877-3265

Venue Website: https://www.blueridgeheritage.com/destinations/looking-glass-rock/

Looking Glass Rock is a large granite dome located in the Appalachian mountains in the south western part of North Carolina.  It is in the Pisgah National Forest.  Looking Glass Rock is a major trad climbing area offering multi pitch free and aid routes, and is close to other well known climbing areas – Whitesides, Laurel Knob and Rumbling Bald. There is reasonable route info on Mountainproject and guidebooks can be found at Ground Up Publishing

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Venue Phone: (845) 255-0919

Venue Website: https://www.mohonkpreserve.org

The Gunks (short for Shawangunks) is one of the premier trad climbing areas in the country. Located near New Paltz, NY, the Gunks is about 85 miles from the NYC metropolitan area. It is part of the Mohonk Preserve, a 501c(3) charitable organization.

To climb at the Gunks you need a day pass or an annual pass.  The  nearby town of New Paltz has a climbing store, Rock and Snow,  and there is camping at the AAC  Samuel E Pryor III campground.

The rock is quartz conglomerate with horizontal rather than vertical cracks. Climbing at the Gunks is characterized by roofs, jugs, traverses, big air, and sometimes “sporty” pro. The Gunks is famous for great one-to-three-pitch climbs of all levels of difficulty. You’ll find some of the best easy and moderate trad climbs in the country at the Gunks. There are a few bolted climbs at the Gunks, but no sport climbs.

More details are available on the Potomac Mountain Club website here

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Venue Phone: (304) 567-2827

Venue Website: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/mnf/recarea/?recid=7051

Seneca Rocks is a mostly trad climbing area in West Virgina with over 500 routes from 5.0 – 5.14. It is located in the Monongahela National Forest which is administered by the Forest Service. There are multiple campsites, guiding services and The Gendarme,  a climbing store located below the cliff.  Climbing information can be found on Mountainproject and there is a climbing guidebook available from the Gendarme.

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Venue Phone: (540) 999-3500

Venue Website: https://www.nps.gov/shen/index.htm

Old Rag is a granite mountain in the Shenandoah National Park offering good hiking and challenging trad climbing on a number of mostly one pitch cliffs. Although there are many bolted and mixed routes on Old Rag, they are not sport climbs. There is a recently published (November 2023) climbing guide available from Sharp End Publishing.

Old Rag is located several hours drive south west of Washington DC near Sperryville VA.  There are two main points of access,   with parking at the NPS Ranger Station on the north side of Old Rag and at Berry Hollow on the southwest side.

Visiting Old Rag requires a limited availability day pass – purchased in advance – from March 1 – November 30.  This is in addition to paying the entry fee or possessing one of several NPS park passes.  Details re obtaining the day pass are here.

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Venue Website: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/109444384/reeds-creek

Reeds Creek  is a limestone sport climbing area in West Virginia,  a few miles from  Seneca Rocks.  Parking is extremely limited and the climbing is described in this Rakkup Guide and on Mountain Project

There are around 70 routes from 5.7 – 5.12.

Reeds Creek is close to the Smokehole Canyon, another limestone sport climbing area, and can be accessed from Highway 220.

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The Smokehole Canyon is in West Virginia,  a few miles from Seneca Rocks.  The canyon contains a number of limestone sport climbing areas, mostly located towards the north end of the canyon.  Parking is extremely limited and the climbing is described in this Rakkup Guide.  There are also routes on the Entrance Walls near the start of the Canyon – this Rakkup Guide. Limited information is listed on Mountainproject. There are around 200 routes on a number of different cliffs, and several commercial campgrounds nearby.

The Smokehole Canyon is close to Reeds Creek, another limestone sport climbing area, and can be accessed from Highway 220 (south end) and Highway 28 (north end)

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Venue Website: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/112136160/wolf-rock

Wolf Rock is a small top-roping climbing area located in Cactocin Mountain Park near the town of Thurmont. Details on this National Park are here

Google Map is here